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What are the primary agents of sediment transport and deposition along shorelines?

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Wave refraction and ...

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High water that occurs with the eye of a storm coupled with storm waves reaching a shoreline is called ____________________.

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storm surge

Why must elected officials and city planners of coastal communities understand the geologic processes of shorelines?

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These individuals must be familiar with ...

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Tidal ranges are lowest where the sea bottom is ____________________ in slope and the inlet is ____________________ in width, and are highest where the slope is ____________________ in slope and the inlet is ____________________ in width.

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gradual, w...

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A wave-built platform is one in which sediment eroded from sea cliffs is transported seaward until it is deposited at the edge of the wave-built platform.

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The velocity of a wave is calculated as the ____________________ divided by the ____________________.

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wavelength, period

What is the nearshore sediment budget?

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Balance between the ...

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How does the Moon generate tides? Why are there generally two high tides and two low tides a day?

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The gravitational pull of the Moon on Ea...

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How does the budget or volume of sand on a given beach change through the year?

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The volume remains more or less constant by sand moving from offshore bars in winter to the foreshore in summer.

Currents that form from the collective movement of wave water refracted off a shoreline are:


A) rip currents.
B) nearshore currents.
C) longshore currents.
D) upwelling currents.
E) refraction currents.

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Give a possible reason why beach residents might construct a groin on a beach. What is a probable negative effect of such a construction?

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A groin would be constructed t...

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Spits and baymouth bars are formed due to ____________________ currents.

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The diameter of a water molecule orbit increases with depth until the wave reaches the seafloor.

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What path do water particles in a wave ideally follow?

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They move in circula...

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Sea level could change relative to a shoreline due to:


A) uplift of coastal regions.
B) subsidence of coastal regions.
C) rising sea level.
D) receding sea level.
E) all of the above

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What is a beach, and what are the component parts of a beach?

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A beach is a deposit of unconsolidated s...

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In most locations ocean water salinity is in dynamic equilibrium, inputs equal outputs. What does this mean and what are the inputs and outputs for dissolved solids in seawater?

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Additions of ions to seawater are offset...

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In what direction do longshore currents flow?

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Longshore currents flow in the...

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What are two ways (one natural and one human-induced) in which the sediment budget of a coastline can become negative?

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A natural way a sediment source could be...

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What are spring tides and neap tides, and what causes them?

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When the Moon and Sun are aligned, wheth...

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